The industrial age
blasted through the 20th century, sure to displace everything
that had been once made by hand or one of a kind. Couture bowed to the sewing
machine, woodworking gave way to the lathe and even jewelry became a mass
produced commodity. But there was an undercurrent of rebellion forming among
designers, makers and patrons of the decorative arts. Some think it was a
certain Parisian art dealer, Siegfried Bing of Maison
de l'Art Nouveau, who unveiled and
promoted a totally new design aesthetic which included all the decorative and
industrial arts.
Designers, at the
turn-of- the-century intended to rise above machine made mediocrity. They
shocked the senses of those accustomed to the drone of the Victorian status
quo. Art Nouveau flourished in a world of rapid social change. The “new art”
brought design innovations that weren’t derived from any previous art form or
period style. It stressed hand fabrication over machine production. The form
and beauty of an was deemed more valuable than the intrinsic worth of
its materials.
To suit the demands of
the design, enamels and glass were often used in preference to gems. Precious
stones and metals were viewed as secondary to the selection of materials and
finishes for creating objects of virtue. Art glass became a primary element in
Nouveau design--the artistry of glass jewels and applied coloring was as much a
part of the jewelry rendering as its form and theme.
Even in its day, Art Nouveau
jewelry was expensive and avant-garde. Women were timid about wearing it until
it was embraced by Sarah Bernhardt, the most adored stage actress of her time.
She commissioned jewelry and hair ornaments, causing a fashion fever for the
new style.
The new aesthetic resulted in an emancipation of jewelry from being mere status symbols to a high art form. However, just 15 years into the new century, WWI broke out. The demand for munitions production to fuel the war effort broke off the love affair with Art Nouveau and brought the Machine Age soundly into place. Though it thrived for just a brief slice of time, Art Nouveau had become established as a celebrated and influential design movement.
It reminds me of short
seasons of tremendous personal growth that have shaped my art as a jewelry
designer, my life and perspectives. What are your some of your most deeply
loved treasures? Is there an art style or subject or endeavor that makes your
life especially more joyous, more complete? Please post a comment below...
The Lily of the Valley pieces are absolutely gorgeous! Well done!
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